of freshly dried oregano
hang, scenting the hot breezes flowing through the ancient,narrow,cobbled
streets.A small pinch can transform a simple dish into flavorful
cuisine.
Herbaceous plants belonging to
the mint family (Lamiaceae ), Orig-
anum are distantly related to mint,
sage,and basil.More than 50 types
of Origanum exist,as oreganos and
marjorams share the same genus
name.Some make great culinary
herbs,others excellent landscaping
plants.
The Origanum family is among
the oldest known cultivated herbs.
According to the ancient Greeks,
the goddess Aphrodite was the first
to tame sweet marjoram,and its
fragrance came from her gentle
touch.Another story tells that
when young Wild Marjoram of
King Cinyras of Cypress ’court
dropped the precious perfumes he
was carrying,he fainted from fright
and dismay.Then,slowly,he
began to metamorphose into this
herb.
The Greeks were happy when
their goats fed on oregano,as the
resulting meat would have a better
flavor.They also knew that if
oregano grew on a tomb,the
deceased rested in peace.Young
couples in both Greece and Rome
once wore wreath crowns of
oregano.A lunar and mercurial
herb, Origanum vulgare was consid-
ered to have aphrodisiac and reju-
venating properties,and was valu-
able for those over 40 to conserve
their youthful (ahem)fitness.
Recipes using oregano appear
in the only Roman cookery book
(Apicii,Artis Magiricae,Libri X )
passed down to us.Apicius,
Roman,wrote it in the first century.
Some dishes sound quite palatable,
such as a Patina of Anchovy,made
with rue and oregano.The author
mentions oregano as one of the
herbs in an aromatic salt,as well as
an ingredient in a sauce for boiled
meats.
It ’s no wonder that when our soldiers returned from Europe
after the Second World War,they
brought back a taste for oregano.
The different,exciting foods they ’d
eaten there featured oregano,
including many pasta sauces and
that “new ”food called pizza.
(Italy ’s classic favorite pizza
Margherita was invented in
Naples in 1889,when King Umber-
to and Queen Margherita visited
the city.)Thanks to the returning
soldiers,pizza quickly became
familiar food in America,and
oregano a popular herb —global-
ization at its best.
